Vanishing Landmarks

My pal Eric Burdette recently had a feature in Tuoi Tre on the disappointing and almost nonexistant state of preservation that exists in Saigon.  Buildings from the colonial era as well as places of historical significance are being thrown to the rubble pile of history seemingly faster than at any other time in history.

Eric wasn't the only one to notice, with the Independent contributing an article particularly focused on Vincom's acquisition and subsequent demolition of the Eden shopping arcade and apartments.  Those buildings that aren't given schedules for destruction seem to be having a tough time at surviving nonetheless with a block of colonial buildings going up in flames only last week.

Eden before demolition (left)

There has been talk among some expats in the past regarding the establishment of a historical preservation society like other places in the world.  While a noble idea, I doubt that an institution as such would have little affect on Ministry of Construction policy particularly when big companies like Vincom are able to use government connections to achieve their business goals.

The silver lining for the preservation, as I see it, lies in the very same enterprises that threaten preservation. Travel into District 3 and you are bound to see plenty of the decaying and derelict French villas. Buildings which probably cause land seekers to shake their heads and wonder when they'll be able to build an office tower or shopping center there.

At the same time, a large number of villas are transforming as entrepreneurs take over the buildings, dust them off and give them a second life as high market cafes and restaurants.

 Khai Silk's Au Manoir de Khai in its restored villa location (Lê Quý Đôn - Điện Biên Phủ)

Its not preservation in its purest sense, as fixtures, floorings and probably even walls are not spared from restructuring, but it's keeping a glimmer of the grandeur most of the buildings once displayed.  And they are certainly more beautiful in their new use than another modern multi-story tower.

A newly renovated villa opening soon as a Ngoc Suong Restaurant (Lê Quý Đôn - Điện Biên Phủ)

 

So whether they value it or not, the Ngoc Suong's and Au Manoir de Khai's of the city are saving the city's historical record.  Perhaps, even Vincom might see it fitting to fashion the corner where Givral once stood in a similar style to the corner known by Graham Greene, Pham Xuan An and the like (though it might have been easier if they hadn't already knocked it down). And as long as patrons keep desiring to experience meals and conversations in places such as those above, I hope that business leaders of the city will continue to seek to cater to those desires.