Phở 69 – 69 Trương Quốc Dũng

I should preface this entry by sharing that of all the Vietnamese soups phở is my least favorite. I would much rather have some bún bò or a bowl of hủ tiếu before I go for phở. I know, it’s a disgrace for a guy who lives in Vietnam, or at least the Vietnam as a national brand with rice fields, conical hats and bowls of the steaming noodles.

Now don’t get me wrong, it’s not that I don’t like the soup. It just wouldn’t be my first choice. So when asked to go to a new place last night I was up for the try especially as I was very hungry and it was just a short jaunt from our house.

We pulled up to # 69 on a small little alleyway of a street and went upstairs and found a seat in the corner. The place has room for about 10 tables and was packed. The head lady asked what we wanted and we went around the table with phở đặc biệt (the specialty). Hang wanted a small bowl but was snapped at by the lady to look at the sign, “phở đặc biệt only comes in large, kid.” She then walked away in a huff before we could adjust the order, Hang in mid-sentence.

Being near the broth station we tried again with the other lady who was obviously the good cop if this was a procedural drama. Surprisingly when the first lady returned from the back room she was in a much more pleasant mood. Hang suggested that perhaps she had to go to the bathroom. I suggested that attitude was part of the atmosphere (a la Grizzly Manor in Big Bear for you California natives, more on that here).

That attitude continued with what I guessed was the younger brother of the first lady who was responsible for delivering the bowls and put on a layer of annoyance if you weren’t ready for it. The older couple next to us made the mistake of not being clear in their order for tea, simply requesting “trà đá” and not specifying how many. “You gotta say how many you want, one person, one tea!”

Aside from the snappy staff the phở truly delivered. Tuan asked me how it was and I had to say “I don’t usually think phở is delicious, but this is really delicious.” I think the key ingredient for me was the amount of beef they put in it with a few good chunks of fat and the bò viên, a type of beef ball that had a great taste. The noodles were also smaller than your typical phở and I found I could have done with a few more in my bowl. Maybe next time.

So if you are looking for a good bowl of phở with a sprinkling of Vietnamese sass, check out 69 Trương Quốc Dũng, Q. Phú Nhuận

Tết: Through the Years

Tết is a unique time in Viet Nam and I feel like my celebrations throughout the years have slowly transformed over the years as I have, as the Vietnamese say, "eaten Tết" each year.  Here's a little synopsis of my experiences:

Tết #1 - Discovery

My first Tết was a period of learning all about the traditions regarding the 3 day extravaganza. I went to the flower market here with one class, I went to the flower market with another class, I went to the flower market with a television crew. But it was more than just a flower market, for sure. I think those 3 days and really the one week solidified in my mind that I was really happy to stay in Viet Nam for another year. Highlights include: enjoying a new cultural tradition with Thai students, chilling at Mr. Trang & Ms. Dao's house, and the Indian curry all day affair at Tri's house.

Tết #2 - Enjoyment

The second Tếtwas probably the most fun. Every day was booked at some place (or usually multiple places in one day) with numerous good friends and far too much food for the people around the table. This Tết I knew what to do, I knew some traditions, I knew some greetings...it was a settled in, nice feeling kind of Tết. Apparently I was enjoying it so much I just realized I have no pictures of the events.

Tết #3 - Responsibility

While I said Tết #2 was the most fun, this Tết was indeed fun, but also I think the most rewarding. This was the Tet that I really participated in. It was quieter than most, I came to Long Xuyên when all the students were leaving the university and so there weren't many folks around. But I connected with Tien, a dear old friend, who happened to have to be on duty at the school. Mr. Luc, the vice-rector, and who I jokingly refer to as my old student-boss (I taught him for a brief period with some other great older students) happened to stop by too. At one point we were sitting around munching on snacks when Mr. Luc came back. We had no snacks, we had no drinks, and we had a vice-rector who just arrived. I quickly asked Tien for his motorbike keys (I had a bicycle I was borrowing, but I realized that to ride said bicycle in the much hotter climate than Hue after not riding a bicycle for nearly 2 years was quite a challenge). In a dash I was at the local shop to buy more goods and back just as Mr. Luc and his entourage were beginning to sit at the table. I've commented before how the little things really make it for me here, and contributing in that way was something so small but really makes me feel at home. The next day I became a representative for An Giang University around the province stopping at all the local People's Committee buildings to greet the workers there.

After that it was off to Kiên Giang, the neighboring province, to meet....the parents. Hằng's parents that is. The time there was great and I learned a lot more about what goes on at Tết when you aren't just showing up for the party aspect in a house and how many relatives go through a house in one day. Especially with Hằng's family there were so many relatives and somewhere in the family tree an aunt on one side married an uncle on another side making these elaborate ties that were really difficult to decipher. The first day I had a talk with the parents and they gave us permission to be "quen nhau," which really doesn't translate right but basically we are allowed to be familiar now. It's nice because if anybody else comes a-courting to the folks (which has happened, still showing the very traditional and beautiful value), they get a send away and a "she's already got somebody" kind of message. That's cool. But honored to meet her family and they really made me feel like part of the fam for the time I was there. Hang's father happened to be in Huế 40 years ago and we had a fun discussion about different places and if some buildings were still here. A lot has changed since then for sure.

It's Beginning to Look a lot like Christmas(?)

Well, if you consider terrible carols, kids dressed as Santa Claus, and the lines of gawkers outside churches on the 24th Christmas then you belong in Vietnam. They do have one thing going for them. Their nativity scenes are set in a cave, much more historically accurate to our lean-to barn structures.

I have a love-hate relationship with Vietnam Christmas. In America I think we have a rich tradition of Christmas which slowly has been stripped away to mall sales, holiday blockbuster releases, and Christmas muzak pumped through every store and business. But every American knows behind all that utter crap there's something rich (even if you don't believe in the infant Christ, the God incarnate). The average Vietnamese person has been handed these notions that exist with tradition, but doesn't have the tradition to accompany it.

I imagine it's the same as when I celebrate Tết here. I see what's done, I see the mounds and mounds of gift baskets for sale and I hear the "new year" music and see everything going on and I think I understand a good portion of it...but not being Vietnamese I know I'm missing that deep down feeling that I'm sure exists. The same way when I think of Christmas I think of being at home next to the fire feeling greater warmth because of the family surrounding me and especially the profound joy in the nature of Christ.

Here's some pictures of Christmas past in Viet Nam and a special song that I must insist you have.


This is one of my favorite pictures from Viet Nam. I just imagine these poor guys' boss saying "you are going to do the Christmas decorations today, wear these" and handing them the Santa hats. I only imagine that their faces (if you could see them) would rival the Grinch himself.



Our homemade Santa (courtesy of one of Lillian's students last year)


I need to write an article to every Vietnamese newspaper telling them that kids are not allowed to dress up as Santa Claus or Mrs. Claus, I think it violates an international Christmas rule. I think they even had a song about it in one of those old Rankin/Bass Christmas specials.

Speaking of songs, just click this now...that's a demand:

Low - Just Like Christmas
(Buy the CD here)